2016 FX Pichler Unedlich Smaragd Riesling

David Schildknecht Vinous Media 94 points

Like its 2015 counterpart – and in a departure from earlier practice – this installment of “Unendlich” is sourced from the Kellerberg and Höhereck as well as the more usual Loibenberg. Around 10 percent of the fruit, reported Lucas Pichler, was shriveled though botrytis-free. The result is an intense concentrate of succulent pear, peach and apricot headily draped in wisteria and lent counterpoint by pit piquancy and smoky, ore-like earthiness. The lusciously lingering finish billows with inner-mouth floral perfume and practically glows with piquancy while avoiding outright bitterness or heat.

The varieties of nature are never-ending, but each vineyard resembles a microcosm that reflects life and history – also those of our family." The idea to make the most of a terroir and varietal had already been alive long before the first "Unendlich" (the German word for never-ending). With the 1998 vintage, that vision for the first time became true. It reflects our passion to craft a wine that is an experience for all senses – a total work of art.

The label for this exceptional offering was inspired by the stage setting created by Karl Friedrich Schinkel for Mozart's opera "The Magic Flute". It represents a starry sky on blue ground – a symbol of cosmic infiniteness. An allegoric way to describe a wine with a "never-ending" finish.